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New Orleans Day 3 - Breakfast of Champions

Saturday AM I had a scheduled client call so we walked over to Drip Affogato Bar for our am caffeine. It’s a quaint little spot on Carondolet that offers 2 of the best things in the world: espresso & ice cream. While traditionally I would opt for a latte, I couldn’t resist an 8am affogato so I opted for the “classique” which had the traditional vanilla scoop with espresso but with the addition of crushed pistchios, maldon sea salt and a stroopwaffel. I ordered it to go so I could make it back in time for my call and they gave me the very cold ice cream & toppings in a biodegradable to go container and a hot shot of espresso so I could DIY. I'll admit, not the best portable food but I somehow managed to finish the whole thing the couple block walk back to our apartment without spilling any on the very bright white outfit I had chosen that morning.

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After my call and Adrians quick trip to Nesbits for more supplies. We decided on breakfast and what turned out to be my absolute favorite meal on the trip thus far! Willa Jean was on my list of places to go but closed at 3pm everyday for limited covid hours and I missed it the first 2 days. Today however, was a fateful day.

Have you ever had a meal so good you go from dancing in your seat to crying actual tears of joy? It’s a rare occasion for me but it does happen and when it goes it’s because of a complete standout meal better than the rest. This was absolutely Willa Jean. If you’re stopping in just for coffee, I highly recommend the milk money latte, at $6 it’s the most expensive coffee drink on their menu and just only rivals that of a traditional Starbucks drink price but it’s sweet simplicity makes it all worth it. Think: what you expect a great vanilla latte to taste like in your dreams. That’s the milk money latte. No frills, just a great quality and not too sweet latte.

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On our first trip (I say first trip because we went back the next day it was so good) I got the Big Easy Bucha in “jazz juice tea” flavor. Basically New Orleans local kombucha with beautiful branding that made it hard to let go of the bottle. We then proceeded to order 3 things from the breakfast menu. Between 2 people this is the perfect amount to split! We got the shrimp & Grits bowl (with the freshest, tastiest shrimp I’ve come across. A fried chicken biscuit with tobasco honey (perfectly fried chicken) and veggies and grains bowl (hello crispy toasted garlic). It was hard to pick a favorite between the three so definitely just order a medley from their menu and eat your way through the morning. You won’t regret it.

In fact, it was so great. that we went back the next morning when our alternate option was closed due to Covid. We got the fried chicken sandwich, the hangover bowl and the loaded avocado toast. It was all just as satisfying as our first trip1

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After breakfast, we headed down on the streetcar to the french market and walked along the water. We wanted to go to the spanish plaza for a visit to see the Pontevedra tile and see the fountains but it was closed due to Covid. We did end up strolling back through the riverwalk outlets for it’s refreshing AC and popped into a couple stores that were open, including a cute little pet store where I got Bear a lobster tug toy. If you find yourself needing to walk back west of the city towards the lower garden district or warehouse district, it’s actually a way to keep cool and pace yourself out of the heat. The outlet mall ends at the convention center at Julia st which is conveniently located on the street our apartment is just a few blocks down.

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As became our ritual, we walked back to the apartment to rest for a bit during the peak heat hours of the city, shower, take a quick nap and regroup. I’m telling you that heat and humidity will wear you out if you’re not careful so this routine saved us from possible heat stroke on many a day!

I booked us a ghost tour that night that was history-based. Meaning no cheesy gimmicks and it was actually guided by someone who has their degree in history and/or teaches history at a local school. It was much more fascinating to me to learn a bit more about the folklore and it’s origins than a cheap scare that you might get from some guy dressed up like a pirate (although to each their own!!)

On the way the way there we actually caught up with a “Take Em Down New Orleans” march against police brutality and for the removal of confederate statues and joined for as many blocks as we could.

When we reached our location across from Jackson Square, we had a few minutes to kill so we ran next door to Kilwins for ice cream. Although I’m always a fan of local, there is a certain comfort in the reliability of the chain of Kilwins! This time I mixed it up a bit and got Kilwins mud & my traditional mint chocolate chip.

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Our tour guide took us along the french quarter to talk about haunted bars & superstitions, to a practicing voodoo temple and discussed the history and origin, one of the original structures in New Orleans that hosted nuns and what townspeople thought were vampires. We also saw the Lalaurie Mansion as seen on American Horror Story as well as another building the show was actually filmed in.

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After the ghost tour we headed off to Bourbon St, we snagged a hurricane and an Abita Amber ale at Lafittes and made our way to a little outdoor courtyard bar/club that was playing raggaeton. We danced for a bit until it started to get crowded. We stopped into Willys fried chicken on Canal and rode the trolley home, half in the bag and full of chicken. It was a great night!


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Since you might find yourself out drinking late on Bourbon St, you’ll probably want some hearty breakfast options to take the edge off the next day or perhaps a little hair of the dog to keep things going. While there are a ton of fabulous spots, here are a few favorites and/or places we didn’t get to check out due to Covid that might be open when you come to visit!

The Vintage - Garden District

One of the cutest, most instagrammable spots for a quick spot of espresso is The Vintage. Set right on Magazine St (where a ton of cute boutiques & restaurants are in the garden district- more on that in next weeks blog) and is only 5 blocks away from the St Charles & 8th street stop on the green line trolley. I urge you to take the trolley and then walk down 8th st to see the beautiful homes (protip, I won’t give you the address but if you go one block up to Harmony, you’ll walk by one of Beyonces houses!!!) The Vintage has all the traditional bar & cafe favorites including beignets and “fancy” beignets that I didn’t get but from the looks in the case appear to have some fun topping options other than powdered sugar. As you can see the below their traditional beignets are pretty large so you’ll have to share or opt for the beignet bites which are the same serving but feel smaller and therefore like you’re eating less. Memorable mentions - iced chai latte for those hot days and if you can bear the heat sitting out front under their pergola where the hanging plants create a little oasis against the sizzle of the pavement surrounding.

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Brennans - French Quarter

Brennans is a cajun classic, opened in New Orleans in 1946 and the original home of the bananas foster (with kind of a fun back story)! Brennans is a fabulous spot for not only breakfast/brunch/lunch but also lunch and dinner on the weekends. It’s a slightly more elevated spot providing a white tablecloth service in a Wes Anderson-esque atmosphere.

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The Cafe Du Monde - French Quarter

A classic spot that some may consider a tourist trap, Cafe Du Monde is the quintessential chicory coffee & beignet spot. Similar to the Eiffel Tower, even though it’s basically the most touristy thing you can do in New Orleans it’s a must-see at least for the sake of saying you’ve gone. The OG location is on Decatur street across from Jackson Square in the French Quarter. Be prepared to wait in line for a bit before you enter and make sure you bring cash (it’s cash only!!) If you aren’t prepared or the line is too long, you can stroll and peruse the french market shops nearby (or pop up the street to visit some of the more eclectic voodoo/vintage/wiccan shops and grab some cash at an atm. If you still don’t care to wait in the hot summer sun, consider visiting the location at city park, they have another lovely outdoor covered terrace and is a great place to stop after a surrey ride around the park.

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Stanley

Just down the street from Cafe Du Monde, is Stanley, a fabulous little lunch spot with a great hurricane and an even better chicken sandwich & breaux bridge benedict with seared boudin patties. Sit outside if it’s not too hot so you can get some epic people watching in and enjoy music from one of the multiple street performers out on a sunny day.

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District | Donuts | Sliders | Brew

If you find yourself craving a donut, as I oftentimes find myself doing, District is the place to be. It’s located in the garden district smack dab on Magazine street. I highly recommend one of their hot, fluffy donuts or if you’re looking for something a bit more filling, the Hot Chicken & Honey Butter French Toast Biscuit will NOT disappoint.

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tags: New Orleans, New Orleans what to do, French quarter new orleans, New Orleans Food, NOLA, NOLA food, cajun food, Where, where to eat New Orleans
categories: Travel
Saturday 08.01.20
Posted by Rachel Rice
 

New Orleans Day 1 - Where To Stay & What to do

I went to NOLA for the first time 2 years ago in January for a conference and absolutely fell in love! It has the charm and character and diversity of my home city of Baltimore but PLUS Jazz, cajun food and a touch more spookiness.

Adrian surprised me with a birthday trip here and we left Thursday morning and landed Thursday afternoon.

Where to Stay - Sonder

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Both this time and the last time I came, I stayed with a rental company called Sonder. It’s very similar to Airbnb except sort of like airbnb+ options with thoughtfully styled spaces that are rental only and not someones home they are renting out like what you sometimes get with Airbnb. It’s the perfect mix between the charm of an airbnb with more of the features/clean feeling of a boutique hotel.

The first time, Mia and I stayed in a Sonder that was one of the apartments divided up in an old Synagogue with a gargoyle out front. in fact if you google map search “gargoyle New Orleans” you’ll find the building we stayed in! Last time we stayed in the Lower Garden District, a beautifully quaint, quiet neighborhood area with only a few cafes/shops nearby but a 10 minute walk to Magazine st.

This time we stayed in Marigny and the gallery/warehouse district. In fact in the block of buildings we are attached to there are 3 art. galleries alone and we are surrounded by many more all full of incredibly talented artists just from the looks of the window browsing I did.

If you’re wanting to stay somewhere within the heart of the city and live like a local, I definitely recommend Sonder. All of the apartments I have stayed in have maintained the beautiful historical charm of the building (which is super important to me) while adding thoughtful touches and updates throughout. They each have a kitchenette area equipped with coffee/tea & maker, stove & oven, microwave, dishwasher and ours even has a washer/dryer which will help tremendously since we are here for an entire week and I love nothing more than to travel back with clean clothes (although I usually still end up washing them again because I’m a germaphobe). Keep in mind there is usually no laundry detergent so you’d be wise in picking up one of the tide travel packs or your own mini detergent if you plan to clean some clothes! Other pros: there is a keypad to get into the building and then a lockbox & key to get into the apartment so it feels extra safe and secure

The first stop we made after dropping our stuff off was to the local organic convenience/grocery, Nesbits for some water & general provisions. Immediately upon arriving, get water. June in NOLA is no joke and you’ll need a stocked fridge of water for each time you walk outside. Nesbits is a fabulous little spot that seems to somehow have a curated list of everything. We got snacks including 2 of my new favorites I’ll be stocking up on and taking back home with me as well as some laundry detergent and kombucha a couple days later when my stomach was still off.

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En route to get provisions we stopped at an italian place called Sofias for cocktails to go, because when in NOLA, you always get a cocktail to go. Adrian got the sangria which he said was great (and he’s from Spain so i value his judgement on that) and I got a drink called the San Bartolomeo which is basically their version of an Old Fashioned with a beautiful stamped whiskey ice cube.

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I have to admit, walking down the street drinking an old fashioned definitely felt wrong, especially because I declined the typical lid & straw and decided to sip mine the “old fashioned” way. But it’s just one of the many things I love about this city!

Dining - Cochon

After we got back to the apartment, we rested for a little bit, showered and then I made a reservation at a place a couple blocks away called Cochon. We planned on venturing out and really diving deep into the food scene later in our trip but I always like to start convenient and close the first day especially because you inadvertently find some amazing spots in being a little more uninhibited with your plans!

At Cochon we ordered the oysters & fried alligator. The fried alligator was great! I was a little put off by the oysters because they were served not on the shell and our uber driver informed us that when it rains a lot, the city floods and when they open the dams it makes the oysters easier to catch but mostly because they die or get sick from the flood water. Thus why places smother them in sauce so you can’t tell they’re bad. I don’t think these were necessarily bad, but it only takes a teensy bit of convincing for the hypochondriac in me to fear the worst.

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Adrian ordered the red fish and I got the pork belly. Both were good, however, the knives were basically like from a 1990s cheapo Ikea playset and could not cut through the crispy crackling of the pork belly. I tried, defeated, and traded dishes with Adrian and watched him struggle through the meal with something that wouldn’t even cut it as a prison shiv.

Afterwards we ordered the blueberry buckle with vanilla ice cream. Even though a pastry chef was listed, it was a bit below expectations, even for me and my unsophisticated taste buds. The waiter did however recommend a good bourbon and the service was absolutely impeccable which made up for a slightly lackluster meal.

That night we walked home past the art galleries and peered in the windows to see beautiful vibrant paintings, black and white photographs and mixed media from some of the finest artists in the world. Exhausted, we went back to the apt and slept off our meal and prepared for the next day!


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Other Where to Stay Options

Here are a few other favorite honorable mentions! Keep in mind there are tons of hotel options but while I love the sterile reliability of places like the Intercontinental and JW Marriott, I prefer spots that have a little bit more soul of the city or unique digs that make you feel like a local. I also am selecting spots that are mostly walkable or you can access the city via tram but are not located directly in the french quarter where it can be kind of loud and crazy all throughout the night!

Ace Hotel

Just down the street from us towards Canal street and around the corner from Lafayette Park sits The Ace Hotel. A stylishly moody 4 star hotel that is *ahem* doggo friendly and also has a rooftop pool! Rates vary greatly depending upon the time of year so book wisely. The style of this place is hollywood regency meets mid-century vintage. Each room feels like what I imagine how a young Stevie Nicks would decorate a NYC loft. If you can swing it, book the 750 sq ft 2 level Ace Suite that comes equipped with a bar, outdoor terrace, turntable &

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Domio

Another stylishly chic, pet friendly option that blurs the line between hotel and airbnb is Domio! Also set in the warehouse district, Domio boasts itself as an “apartment hotel” where you have options like a more traditional hotel studio all the way up to a 4 bedroom suite with a full kitchen. You have 24/7 check in and traditional hotel amenities like a pool, gym etc but you’re essentially renting a hotel room that is built & designed like an apartment! what sets it apart from Airbnb/VRBO/Homeaway is that instead of a broad marketplace anyone can join, Domio is particular in curating their apartments so you know there are beautifully appointed spaces that are well taken care of (and don’t have to feel weird putting your bag in the bathroom cabinet next to someones q-tips & makeup stash). In this sense, it’s very similar to Sonder!

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Airbnb+ 2 BR Shotgun House in the Garden District

The garden district is one of the most tranquil, beautiful neighborhood in New Orleans. With gorgeous traditional architecture, sprawling gardens and cute little corner cafes & boutiques, it’s a favorite of mine! There are tons of gigantic mansions but my personal favorites are the quaint little shotgun houses that truly make you feel like a local being immersed in the traditional style of home and surrounded by artwork hand selected by a NOLA native. This one got my attention because after all I am a millenial and those plants are drool worthy!

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Sonder - great for multiple guests!

If I’ve sold you on Sonder and you’re coming down with a group, this sonder option also located in the Central Business District is a perfect place for a get-together with friends & family that wants to stay closer than hotel rooms but not too close. With 5 bedrooms, in house washer/dryer and a full kitchen and a lobby, it’s basically like staying at a friends cute, clean city apartment!

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Maison De La Luz - french fancy

If you want a slightly more posh aesthetic (think the interior spaces of the Greenbrier) and want to really embrace the french side of NOLA, Maison De La Luz is the spot. The entire hotel reads like an issue of Vogue magazine and magically blends the finer points of southern living with the high end detail of french design and that little touch of funky that New Orleans is known for. The design firm on this project has an impressive portfolio spanning most of California and has a thoughtful, luxurious approach to all their design. If you want an experience slightly more elevated but still distinctly unique, this is the hotel for you.

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tags: NOLA, New Orleans, Where to stay, VRBO, Airbnb, Hotel, New Orleans Hotel, New Orleans Apartment, New Orleans Style, Sonder, Ace Hotel, Maison De La Luz, airbnb plus, Domio, New Orleans Where to stay
categories: Travel
Sunday 06.28.20
Posted by Rachel Rice
 

Rincon & San Juan


I woke up early again, and headed to my recurring work spot, one of the hammocks on the front porch, to get as close to inbox zero as I could before we headed off again. Once the girls were awake we swung by Jakes Java again for our morning fill-up and eventually made our way to my favorite beach in Rincon so far. Corcega beach sits just past the downtown area of Rincon down a few side streets lies the most peaceful, serene beach in Rincon. The waves lap gently against the shore and a small wooden swing is suspended between the ocean and a little bog from a tall palm tree. By this point I had almost finished my morning g&t so the liquid courage and soft demeanor of the ocean invited me in, Cece leading the way. I dove, headfirst into the ocean, for the first time in 2 years since the last time I almost died while attempting to swim on a beach that was clearly more for surfing near Cabo. After diving in, the exhilarating rush of being in the ocean and not drowning and/or getting eaten by a sea serpent kept me (literally & figuratively) afloat until it was time to head back to land. Danielle created another epic sand castle (she is after all, the newly annointed sand castle queen).

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We headed back while stopping off at Playa Bowls for acai bowls. That night we drank and partied and decorated the house for Ceces birthday, even featuring the “IT IS YOUR BIRTHDAY” banner from The Office.

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Our last day in Rincon was spent similar to the first few, lounging by the pool, soaking up rays by the ocean and another epic sand castle by Danielle. That night, however, we met up with Peter and watched the sunset from the top of Domes beach. We then headed to La Estacion pub with $1.50 Medallas and the most delicious little taco stand out front. It was early so the taco stand was busier than the pub, but totally worth the wait. The girls fried up our tortillas with cheese on the grill before filling with the most delicious fillings I had tried thus far.

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We ended the evening back at the house with more drinks and a rousing game of “keep the balloon off the floor” with some of Ceces leftover birthday decorations. It was actually the perfect ending to the trip, I polished off the bottle of Rioja I had snagged on our grocery store run and slept off the sun.

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The next day we drove East back to San Juan and explored old San Juan, it’s brilliantly colored buildings, fun art installations and rum houses for a bit before taking Danielle to the airport. We then headed to a bubble tea spot, followed by empanadas and medallas at Pa’pical, a little spot near the beach before we dropped off the rental car and began our journey home.

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I didn’t know what to expect from Puerto Rico but I can tell you at least partially overcoming my fear of the ocean and savoring those warm sandy beaches and tropical water made me feel like maybe, in fact, I might be a beach person.

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tags: Travel, Puerto Rico, San Juan
categories: Travel
Wednesday 04.24.19
Posted by Rachel Rice
 

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