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New Orleans Day 3 - Breakfast of Champions

Saturday AM I had a scheduled client call so we walked over to Drip Affogato Bar for our am caffeine. It’s a quaint little spot on Carondolet that offers 2 of the best things in the world: espresso & ice cream. While traditionally I would opt for a latte, I couldn’t resist an 8am affogato so I opted for the “classique” which had the traditional vanilla scoop with espresso but with the addition of crushed pistchios, maldon sea salt and a stroopwaffel. I ordered it to go so I could make it back in time for my call and they gave me the very cold ice cream & toppings in a biodegradable to go container and a hot shot of espresso so I could DIY. I'll admit, not the best portable food but I somehow managed to finish the whole thing the couple block walk back to our apartment without spilling any on the very bright white outfit I had chosen that morning.

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After my call and Adrians quick trip to Nesbits for more supplies. We decided on breakfast and what turned out to be my absolute favorite meal on the trip thus far! Willa Jean was on my list of places to go but closed at 3pm everyday for limited covid hours and I missed it the first 2 days. Today however, was a fateful day.

Have you ever had a meal so good you go from dancing in your seat to crying actual tears of joy? It’s a rare occasion for me but it does happen and when it goes it’s because of a complete standout meal better than the rest. This was absolutely Willa Jean. If you’re stopping in just for coffee, I highly recommend the milk money latte, at $6 it’s the most expensive coffee drink on their menu and just only rivals that of a traditional Starbucks drink price but it’s sweet simplicity makes it all worth it. Think: what you expect a great vanilla latte to taste like in your dreams. That’s the milk money latte. No frills, just a great quality and not too sweet latte.

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On our first trip (I say first trip because we went back the next day it was so good) I got the Big Easy Bucha in “jazz juice tea” flavor. Basically New Orleans local kombucha with beautiful branding that made it hard to let go of the bottle. We then proceeded to order 3 things from the breakfast menu. Between 2 people this is the perfect amount to split! We got the shrimp & Grits bowl (with the freshest, tastiest shrimp I’ve come across. A fried chicken biscuit with tobasco honey (perfectly fried chicken) and veggies and grains bowl (hello crispy toasted garlic). It was hard to pick a favorite between the three so definitely just order a medley from their menu and eat your way through the morning. You won’t regret it.

In fact, it was so great. that we went back the next morning when our alternate option was closed due to Covid. We got the fried chicken sandwich, the hangover bowl and the loaded avocado toast. It was all just as satisfying as our first trip1

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After breakfast, we headed down on the streetcar to the french market and walked along the water. We wanted to go to the spanish plaza for a visit to see the Pontevedra tile and see the fountains but it was closed due to Covid. We did end up strolling back through the riverwalk outlets for it’s refreshing AC and popped into a couple stores that were open, including a cute little pet store where I got Bear a lobster tug toy. If you find yourself needing to walk back west of the city towards the lower garden district or warehouse district, it’s actually a way to keep cool and pace yourself out of the heat. The outlet mall ends at the convention center at Julia st which is conveniently located on the street our apartment is just a few blocks down.

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As became our ritual, we walked back to the apartment to rest for a bit during the peak heat hours of the city, shower, take a quick nap and regroup. I’m telling you that heat and humidity will wear you out if you’re not careful so this routine saved us from possible heat stroke on many a day!

I booked us a ghost tour that night that was history-based. Meaning no cheesy gimmicks and it was actually guided by someone who has their degree in history and/or teaches history at a local school. It was much more fascinating to me to learn a bit more about the folklore and it’s origins than a cheap scare that you might get from some guy dressed up like a pirate (although to each their own!!)

On the way the way there we actually caught up with a “Take Em Down New Orleans” march against police brutality and for the removal of confederate statues and joined for as many blocks as we could.

When we reached our location across from Jackson Square, we had a few minutes to kill so we ran next door to Kilwins for ice cream. Although I’m always a fan of local, there is a certain comfort in the reliability of the chain of Kilwins! This time I mixed it up a bit and got Kilwins mud & my traditional mint chocolate chip.

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Our tour guide took us along the french quarter to talk about haunted bars & superstitions, to a practicing voodoo temple and discussed the history and origin, one of the original structures in New Orleans that hosted nuns and what townspeople thought were vampires. We also saw the Lalaurie Mansion as seen on American Horror Story as well as another building the show was actually filmed in.

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After the ghost tour we headed off to Bourbon St, we snagged a hurricane and an Abita Amber ale at Lafittes and made our way to a little outdoor courtyard bar/club that was playing raggaeton. We danced for a bit until it started to get crowded. We stopped into Willys fried chicken on Canal and rode the trolley home, half in the bag and full of chicken. It was a great night!


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Since you might find yourself out drinking late on Bourbon St, you’ll probably want some hearty breakfast options to take the edge off the next day or perhaps a little hair of the dog to keep things going. While there are a ton of fabulous spots, here are a few favorites and/or places we didn’t get to check out due to Covid that might be open when you come to visit!

The Vintage - Garden District

One of the cutest, most instagrammable spots for a quick spot of espresso is The Vintage. Set right on Magazine St (where a ton of cute boutiques & restaurants are in the garden district- more on that in next weeks blog) and is only 5 blocks away from the St Charles & 8th street stop on the green line trolley. I urge you to take the trolley and then walk down 8th st to see the beautiful homes (protip, I won’t give you the address but if you go one block up to Harmony, you’ll walk by one of Beyonces houses!!!) The Vintage has all the traditional bar & cafe favorites including beignets and “fancy” beignets that I didn’t get but from the looks in the case appear to have some fun topping options other than powdered sugar. As you can see the below their traditional beignets are pretty large so you’ll have to share or opt for the beignet bites which are the same serving but feel smaller and therefore like you’re eating less. Memorable mentions - iced chai latte for those hot days and if you can bear the heat sitting out front under their pergola where the hanging plants create a little oasis against the sizzle of the pavement surrounding.

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Brennans - French Quarter

Brennans is a cajun classic, opened in New Orleans in 1946 and the original home of the bananas foster (with kind of a fun back story)! Brennans is a fabulous spot for not only breakfast/brunch/lunch but also lunch and dinner on the weekends. It’s a slightly more elevated spot providing a white tablecloth service in a Wes Anderson-esque atmosphere.

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The Cafe Du Monde - French Quarter

A classic spot that some may consider a tourist trap, Cafe Du Monde is the quintessential chicory coffee & beignet spot. Similar to the Eiffel Tower, even though it’s basically the most touristy thing you can do in New Orleans it’s a must-see at least for the sake of saying you’ve gone. The OG location is on Decatur street across from Jackson Square in the French Quarter. Be prepared to wait in line for a bit before you enter and make sure you bring cash (it’s cash only!!) If you aren’t prepared or the line is too long, you can stroll and peruse the french market shops nearby (or pop up the street to visit some of the more eclectic voodoo/vintage/wiccan shops and grab some cash at an atm. If you still don’t care to wait in the hot summer sun, consider visiting the location at city park, they have another lovely outdoor covered terrace and is a great place to stop after a surrey ride around the park.

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Stanley

Just down the street from Cafe Du Monde, is Stanley, a fabulous little lunch spot with a great hurricane and an even better chicken sandwich & breaux bridge benedict with seared boudin patties. Sit outside if it’s not too hot so you can get some epic people watching in and enjoy music from one of the multiple street performers out on a sunny day.

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District | Donuts | Sliders | Brew

If you find yourself craving a donut, as I oftentimes find myself doing, District is the place to be. It’s located in the garden district smack dab on Magazine street. I highly recommend one of their hot, fluffy donuts or if you’re looking for something a bit more filling, the Hot Chicken & Honey Butter French Toast Biscuit will NOT disappoint.

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tags: New Orleans, New Orleans what to do, French quarter new orleans, New Orleans Food, NOLA, NOLA food, cajun food, Where, where to eat New Orleans
categories: Travel
Saturday 08.01.20
Posted by Rachel Rice
 

New Orleans - Day 2 self care & lunch in the french quarter

Day 2 is usually my ritual day. Whenever/wherever I land if it’s too late the first day on the second day I schedule some sort of self care. A massage is my go to especially after being tense from a long, dehydrating flight. But with regulations in the city places were slow to open so I opted for a pedi! Across the street from our apt is a spot called Nail Bar Nola and I called the night before to schedule an appt at 10 am when they opened. I opted for the opulence pedicure that included a signature essential oils scent.

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Before my pedicure we walked down the street to Congregation Coffee Roasters for a couple quick iced lattes. It’s a scarcely decorated space (mostly due to Covid) that has a short but sweet menu offering. A great quick pick me up on your way throughout the day.

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Around noon we decided to try our luck walking to the french quarter. Now distance wise this isn’t a problem but just after lunch it gets HOT and humid. This was before we got our rta app and rode the trolley everywhere (more on that on the next post!) We walked past Lafayette park and the shops on Canal street and I stopped into a place called “Hippie Gypsy” there was a LOT of hemp and tye dye, which aren’t exactly my jam but they had 2 things I loved. This cute little yellow shorts jumper and palo santo. The dress I was wearing was a bit heavy and dark for the heat and humidity that day so I literally bought and ware the jumper out of the store. It was a good call.

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Strolling through the french quarter was quite leisurely. Adrian had never had a hurricane before so of course stopped at the famous Lafittes Blacksmith Shop for a hurricane to go. These are dangerous because they just taste like juice and 10 minutes later you’re hammered on Bourbon street so proceed with caution!

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We strolled around for a bit and realized we shouldn’t be drinking in 100 degree heat with no other substance so we headed over to Stanley for lunch. Stanley sits right next to the St Louis Cathedral and Jackson Square so if you can bear the heat the patio seating offers excellent people watching and snippets of both jazz on the corner of Decatur and music from whoever may be performing outside of the cathedral.

I got the breaux bridge benedict & Adrian got the fried chicken sandwich and a second hurricane. Everything was delicious and our server was lovely! I’ll admit though, after a few more sips of the hurricane, heading upstairs to the restroom was slightly precarious, but I survived and we continued our walk.

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Last time I was in NOLA I stumbled upon a vintage shop with Mia that also carried modern art, prints & photographs and I finally found it again after some instagram archive sleuthing. Secondline Arts & Antiques not only has a cool little courtyard with tons of architectural & scrap art pieces but also has lots of stalls from local artists selling their prints, attire, stationery & more. It also hosts a stall from one of my favorite artists, Leroy’s Place, who I got my Dolly and Dali earrings and several of their Monster prints that hang happily in my home. They even had 2 guillotines for sale at Secondline, which we did not take home and are most likely still there for anyone who might be interested.

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At this point it was 4pm and peak heat and humidity around 93 with a feels like temp of 103. Mix that with the hurricanes and the sun beating down on the pavement for 10 hours now and it was time to head home. I really recommend taking a break between activities if you’re coming in the summer and having planned downtime/rest/reshowering around 2-5pm when the city is absolutely at it’s hottest and there are way too many people out and about anyway. We headed back to the apartment and made dinner plans!

That evening, I made reservations at Herbsaint which is also a short walk away from our apartment. Immediately upon arriving we knew we made a great choice, I truly feel the design of a space says a lot about the quality of the restaurant and I personally feel like if you feel a little sketched out, check out the restrooms, if they’re clean, shiny and designed well you can bet the back of house and overall culinary team probably matches. The bread was fresh baked and fabulous and the menu was chock full of amazing options. I ended up getting the filet au poivre that came with french fries with a great chipotle aioli and Adrian got the grilled chicken which was cooked to perfection. We also started with the cremini mushrooms which had star anise that I’m not a huge fan of but overall was a light, interesting choice! I was bummed not to get a cocktail because there were some awesome ones on the list but my stomach was a bit upset and I wanted to invest in some kombucha first to make sure I felt better before drinking. It was a fabulous endcap to day 2 of our trip and I highly recommend making a resy for either indoors or patio seating (judge the temp when you arrive, it was still in the upper 80s for our resy at 9pm and I opted for inside instead).

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I’m sure you’ve seen a million recommendations for cocktails in Nola (hello Sazerac!!) and rightfully so! But did you know there are a ton of really incredible, and beautifully designed coffee shops and breakfast spots? Here are 10 of my favorites! Also, please keep in mind these were only the ones that were open during the Covid shutdown so there are even more great options out there that will hopefully be available again soon!


1 Stumptown

As you might already know, Stumptown is the other coffee chain to come out of the pacific northwest. It is a lot smaller of a boutique coffee roaster but personally one of my favorites. They only have a handful of spots, mostly in Oregon, a few in NYC and this one in NOLA! Stop in for a great cold brew, latte or any other traditional espresso or coffee drink! It’s attached to my previously mentioned Ace Hotel so if you’re staying there or nearby you can walk over for a perfect cuppa. Also, they have the most wonderfully designed tumblers and other coffee accessories if you’re trying to cut down on plastic & single use!

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2 Drip Affogato Bar

Affogatos are one of the most beautiful yet underrated inventions ever. If you’ve never had an affogato, it’s traditionally a scoop of vanilla gelato “drowned” in a shot of espresso. You get the marriage of two of the best inventions on earth together in a single cup. It introduces the soft, buttery sweetness of the gelato to the piping hot acidity of the espresso and creates a perfect little pick me up. Thus why Drip Affogato makes the list early on as a must-go. Drip offers the traditional ice cream by the scoop, all your favorite espresso based barista made drinks as well as a variety of different types of affogato like the Cookie Monster which is chocolate drizzle, cookie crumbles, whip cream and a hot chocolate drip. No matter your affogato style or craving, you definitely have to stop in to indulge!

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3 Mammoth Coffee Roasters

We swung into Mammoth coffee roasters right before stocking up on boxes of Aunt Sally’s Pralines right around the corner. They are a smaller boutique coffee. shop with a cute cozy modern aesthetic and pretty decent coffee! Social distancing was in place so technically they didn’t have any dine in but there were a couple cafe tables outside we sat in to sip our coffee. It’s past Julia St. on Baronne and is a don’t miss if you’re in need of a quick hit of espresso!

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3 Cafe Bon Ami

Cafe Bon Ami is located just behind Poydras St behind Le Pavillon hotel. It’s a small, unassuming spot in a row of architecturally beautiful rows of buildings with lovely filigree accents. Another mini spot, there are a few hightop options and a short but sweet menu. It was a great stop along our way to the jazz museum before the rain started and because it’s off the beaten path we had it practically all to ourselves the entire time!

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5 Sacred Grinds

Sacred Grinds is a fun and funky mid city spot located adjacent to it’s sister company The Herb Import and is a brightly painted building across the street from the hurricane katrina memorial and most notably smack dab in between 2 historic cemeteries. You can even enjoy a fabulous vegan donut while sitting on their off street lounge that, in their words “features a great view of our quiet neighbors.”

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6 PJ’s Coffee

PJs coffee is a New Orleans chain but totally worth an honorable mention

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7 French Truck Coffee

Another great chain worth mentioning! The most popular one is located in the french quarter but there are actually 3 locations all along the Magazine st Corridor (and one just a block away on Poydras). They have fun yellow branding and have a variety of bean options - my personal favorite is the sumatran blend!

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tags: New Orleans, NOLA, Louisiana, Where to eat, What to do, New Orleans what to do, French quarter new orleans
Sunday 06.28.20
Posted by Rachel Rice
 

New Orleans Day 1 - Where To Stay & What to do

I went to NOLA for the first time 2 years ago in January for a conference and absolutely fell in love! It has the charm and character and diversity of my home city of Baltimore but PLUS Jazz, cajun food and a touch more spookiness.

Adrian surprised me with a birthday trip here and we left Thursday morning and landed Thursday afternoon.

Where to Stay - Sonder

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Both this time and the last time I came, I stayed with a rental company called Sonder. It’s very similar to Airbnb except sort of like airbnb+ options with thoughtfully styled spaces that are rental only and not someones home they are renting out like what you sometimes get with Airbnb. It’s the perfect mix between the charm of an airbnb with more of the features/clean feeling of a boutique hotel.

The first time, Mia and I stayed in a Sonder that was one of the apartments divided up in an old Synagogue with a gargoyle out front. in fact if you google map search “gargoyle New Orleans” you’ll find the building we stayed in! Last time we stayed in the Lower Garden District, a beautifully quaint, quiet neighborhood area with only a few cafes/shops nearby but a 10 minute walk to Magazine st.

This time we stayed in Marigny and the gallery/warehouse district. In fact in the block of buildings we are attached to there are 3 art. galleries alone and we are surrounded by many more all full of incredibly talented artists just from the looks of the window browsing I did.

If you’re wanting to stay somewhere within the heart of the city and live like a local, I definitely recommend Sonder. All of the apartments I have stayed in have maintained the beautiful historical charm of the building (which is super important to me) while adding thoughtful touches and updates throughout. They each have a kitchenette area equipped with coffee/tea & maker, stove & oven, microwave, dishwasher and ours even has a washer/dryer which will help tremendously since we are here for an entire week and I love nothing more than to travel back with clean clothes (although I usually still end up washing them again because I’m a germaphobe). Keep in mind there is usually no laundry detergent so you’d be wise in picking up one of the tide travel packs or your own mini detergent if you plan to clean some clothes! Other pros: there is a keypad to get into the building and then a lockbox & key to get into the apartment so it feels extra safe and secure

The first stop we made after dropping our stuff off was to the local organic convenience/grocery, Nesbits for some water & general provisions. Immediately upon arriving, get water. June in NOLA is no joke and you’ll need a stocked fridge of water for each time you walk outside. Nesbits is a fabulous little spot that seems to somehow have a curated list of everything. We got snacks including 2 of my new favorites I’ll be stocking up on and taking back home with me as well as some laundry detergent and kombucha a couple days later when my stomach was still off.

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En route to get provisions we stopped at an italian place called Sofias for cocktails to go, because when in NOLA, you always get a cocktail to go. Adrian got the sangria which he said was great (and he’s from Spain so i value his judgement on that) and I got a drink called the San Bartolomeo which is basically their version of an Old Fashioned with a beautiful stamped whiskey ice cube.

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I have to admit, walking down the street drinking an old fashioned definitely felt wrong, especially because I declined the typical lid & straw and decided to sip mine the “old fashioned” way. But it’s just one of the many things I love about this city!

Dining - Cochon

After we got back to the apartment, we rested for a little bit, showered and then I made a reservation at a place a couple blocks away called Cochon. We planned on venturing out and really diving deep into the food scene later in our trip but I always like to start convenient and close the first day especially because you inadvertently find some amazing spots in being a little more uninhibited with your plans!

At Cochon we ordered the oysters & fried alligator. The fried alligator was great! I was a little put off by the oysters because they were served not on the shell and our uber driver informed us that when it rains a lot, the city floods and when they open the dams it makes the oysters easier to catch but mostly because they die or get sick from the flood water. Thus why places smother them in sauce so you can’t tell they’re bad. I don’t think these were necessarily bad, but it only takes a teensy bit of convincing for the hypochondriac in me to fear the worst.

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Adrian ordered the red fish and I got the pork belly. Both were good, however, the knives were basically like from a 1990s cheapo Ikea playset and could not cut through the crispy crackling of the pork belly. I tried, defeated, and traded dishes with Adrian and watched him struggle through the meal with something that wouldn’t even cut it as a prison shiv.

Afterwards we ordered the blueberry buckle with vanilla ice cream. Even though a pastry chef was listed, it was a bit below expectations, even for me and my unsophisticated taste buds. The waiter did however recommend a good bourbon and the service was absolutely impeccable which made up for a slightly lackluster meal.

That night we walked home past the art galleries and peered in the windows to see beautiful vibrant paintings, black and white photographs and mixed media from some of the finest artists in the world. Exhausted, we went back to the apt and slept off our meal and prepared for the next day!


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Other Where to Stay Options

Here are a few other favorite honorable mentions! Keep in mind there are tons of hotel options but while I love the sterile reliability of places like the Intercontinental and JW Marriott, I prefer spots that have a little bit more soul of the city or unique digs that make you feel like a local. I also am selecting spots that are mostly walkable or you can access the city via tram but are not located directly in the french quarter where it can be kind of loud and crazy all throughout the night!

Ace Hotel

Just down the street from us towards Canal street and around the corner from Lafayette Park sits The Ace Hotel. A stylishly moody 4 star hotel that is *ahem* doggo friendly and also has a rooftop pool! Rates vary greatly depending upon the time of year so book wisely. The style of this place is hollywood regency meets mid-century vintage. Each room feels like what I imagine how a young Stevie Nicks would decorate a NYC loft. If you can swing it, book the 750 sq ft 2 level Ace Suite that comes equipped with a bar, outdoor terrace, turntable &

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Domio

Another stylishly chic, pet friendly option that blurs the line between hotel and airbnb is Domio! Also set in the warehouse district, Domio boasts itself as an “apartment hotel” where you have options like a more traditional hotel studio all the way up to a 4 bedroom suite with a full kitchen. You have 24/7 check in and traditional hotel amenities like a pool, gym etc but you’re essentially renting a hotel room that is built & designed like an apartment! what sets it apart from Airbnb/VRBO/Homeaway is that instead of a broad marketplace anyone can join, Domio is particular in curating their apartments so you know there are beautifully appointed spaces that are well taken care of (and don’t have to feel weird putting your bag in the bathroom cabinet next to someones q-tips & makeup stash). In this sense, it’s very similar to Sonder!

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Airbnb+ 2 BR Shotgun House in the Garden District

The garden district is one of the most tranquil, beautiful neighborhood in New Orleans. With gorgeous traditional architecture, sprawling gardens and cute little corner cafes & boutiques, it’s a favorite of mine! There are tons of gigantic mansions but my personal favorites are the quaint little shotgun houses that truly make you feel like a local being immersed in the traditional style of home and surrounded by artwork hand selected by a NOLA native. This one got my attention because after all I am a millenial and those plants are drool worthy!

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Sonder - great for multiple guests!

If I’ve sold you on Sonder and you’re coming down with a group, this sonder option also located in the Central Business District is a perfect place for a get-together with friends & family that wants to stay closer than hotel rooms but not too close. With 5 bedrooms, in house washer/dryer and a full kitchen and a lobby, it’s basically like staying at a friends cute, clean city apartment!

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Maison De La Luz - french fancy

If you want a slightly more posh aesthetic (think the interior spaces of the Greenbrier) and want to really embrace the french side of NOLA, Maison De La Luz is the spot. The entire hotel reads like an issue of Vogue magazine and magically blends the finer points of southern living with the high end detail of french design and that little touch of funky that New Orleans is known for. The design firm on this project has an impressive portfolio spanning most of California and has a thoughtful, luxurious approach to all their design. If you want an experience slightly more elevated but still distinctly unique, this is the hotel for you.

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tags: NOLA, New Orleans, Where to stay, VRBO, Airbnb, Hotel, New Orleans Hotel, New Orleans Apartment, New Orleans Style, Sonder, Ace Hotel, Maison De La Luz, airbnb plus, Domio, New Orleans Where to stay
categories: Travel
Sunday 06.28.20
Posted by Rachel Rice
 

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